PC Discussion Thread - All PC related in here.

[subtee 0]

Is Windows 7 out yet, or is it some kind of beta you guys are using?

[GoOB 0]

Windows 7 x64 RC is a charming OS - I never jumped from XP to vista but went from XP to Windows 7 RC. Couldn't be happier with it.

[Sturmer 10]

Demo works fine with Windows 7 RC 64bit build 7100

Dont know about fps.

About XP... some years ago there was same kind of talk of DOS OS and Win98/2000.

Its natural that XP dissapears soon.

Edited June 27, 2009 by Sturmer

[dunedain 48]

Is Windows 7 out yet, or is it some kind of beta you guys are using?

Windows 7 is in public beta stage until next year summer.

[Joseph Troska 0]

Damn, so does that mean I have cheated myself out of being able to play ArmA2 with anywhere near decent or even playable framerates?

When I recently bought my new rig I opted for Vista64 over Windows 7, simply because I thought driver support would be better for Vista64.

I don't get the game until July 5th, but I think I am screwed anyway :( :( :( :(

My specs are: i7 920 @ 2.67ghz, 6gb DDR3 RAM, 4870x2 with Vista64 Home Premium

Maybe I'll have to settle with reinstalling OFP CWC/Res

Edited June 27, 2009 by Joseph Troska

[echo1 0]

You're probably going to be alright, however, make sure to read up on all the Crossfire fixes for that dual-GPU card of yours.

[Joseph Troska 0]

You're probably going to be alright, however, make sure to read up on all the Crossfire fixes for that dual-GPU card of yours.

Thanks for the reply, and I'll keep up the research.

and LOL @ your specs. Now there's a man who isn't ashamed about his size. :p

Edited June 28, 2009 by Joseph Troska

[GunnDawg09 10]

So I've got a Phenom 9600 2.3GHz Quad-Core and was wondering if I could get some pointers on where to set my settings, and what settings to use to OC this bad boy just a little bit.

Keep in mind I only have the stock fan it came with, not sure if thats gonna be OK or not.

[Heatseeker 0]

Wrong forum section m8, theres a PC/hardware sticky thread in offtopic but your best bet is to search for a site dedicated to OC'ing, google is your m8 too.

[echo1 0]

Those original Phenoms are a bitch to overclock properly, and I think I reading somewhere that if you push them too hard, you can damage your motherboard (much moreso than with any CPU around). You'd be best googling for some guides.

[MehMan 0]

So after rummaging around my case today installing a new noctua 92mm fan inside my arctic square evo and being disapointed that it didn't silence it, I started looking at other causes for the noise. Disconnected every fan and each time I turned on the pute the noise and rattle was still there. All was disconnected but the PSU. I decided to screw the warranty and took it apart. Since the only thing that could be making the noise was the fan I disconnected it. At first I wanted to use my now obsolete HD4870 cooler small fan cable which I got from gainward, because the PSU fan is a 2pin fan and the HD4870 cooler adpater cable was a 2pin one too. But a different kind of connecter so that plan has now gone to hell. So I just stuck with not having it plugged in. And woah. What a difference. The noise is now gone! In order to avoid damage to the PSU and maybe other components I need to replace it with a more silent PSU. What I'm looking for is a good 600ishW PSU with around 80A on the 12V rail and modular design. It needs to be really quiet though! Any suggestions?

[echo1 0]

The Corsair HX620 is what you'd be looking for, it's a great PSU, and really quiet too. I have to put my ear up to mine to hear any noise while it's running.

Incidentally, there's a reason why there's a load of warning stickers on PSUs... I hate to sound like a wuss, but unless you really know what you're doing, taking one apart, even when it's been unplugged, you've discharged the power by hitting the power button when it's off and it hasn't been used in a while, is potentially quite dangerous due to charge that may be left in capacitors that can only be manually discharged. While I'm not saying that opening a PSU = instant electrocution, it's probably something that you (and anyone else) should refrain from. Besides, if there's a problem with your PSU, you're better off replacing it anyway...

[MehMan 0]

no, no problem with the PSU, they just put a shitty fan in it. And I only took the top cover off and unplugged the fan.

Righto, I'll look into the different PSUs, the HX620 has high marks in the silentpc psu reviews.

[mr_centipede 31]

Hi, not really a troubleshooting but I was wondering,

Last night I installed new Cat 9.6 and suddenly I have no sound whatsoever. So I go to Creative website download the new driver for X-Fi (driver date 26june2009) and that finally fixed it

But my main question is, what does graphic card driver has anything to do with my sound card? why is it conflicting each other?

Thank you

[Sertorius21 10]

"What I'm looking for is a good 600ishW PSU with around 80A on the 12V rail and modular design. It needs to be really quiet though! Any suggestions?"

@MehMan - 80A on one rail is pretty damn powerful. The PCP&C 910W PSU is pretty highly regarded (It's a 'Silencer' model, and is considered a Tier I PSU), and it bangs out 74A on one rail.

The Corsair HX620 recommended by ch_123 is actually a triple-rail PSU, I'm not sure if you'd consider that a positive or a negative. If you really like single rails, check out the TX650, it's a 650W model with one 52A rail. You might also want to take a gander at the HX750, as it's got one rail rated to 62A.

Edited June 30, 2009 by Sertorius21

[MehMan 0]

No no, not on one rail, but I've got 20A on 4 rails with my mushkin atm, total that up and it's around 80A on the whole. Prolly made myself misunderstood. Ok no, I admit, I worded it wrongly and am a dolt.

Might get the 520W Corsair, it's about the same in everything but wattage and I don't really need more than that. I've got the 580W PSU atm just for safety and in order to leave a bit of room for upgrades.

Edited June 30, 2009 by MehMan

[maddogx 13]

Now that I have a motherboard that is nicely capable of overclocking quads, I've been thinking about upgrading my CPU and RAM. At the moment I've got my Intel Core 2 Q6600 overclocked to a nice and stable 3.2GHz (400x8, 1.41v, max. 55°c in Prime95) and four 1GB GEiL DDR2 RAM sticks at their stock 800MHz. This gives me a nice 1:1 clock ratio.

Now I'm seriously considering forking out for a Q9650 and 2x2GB of Corsair Dominator DDR2 1066MHz EPP memory. I'd like to overclock the CPU to about 3.8-4.0 GHz. The main concerns I have are:

- Will it be worth it, performancewise?

- Has anyone else OC'ed a Q9650 to 3.8+GHz (on air)? What kind of voltage and temps am I looking at?

- Is it wise to overclock the RAM aswell to achieve a good clock ratio? (never OC'ed RAM before)

Thanks in advance for any advice. :)

[echo1 0]

You should be able to push your Q6600 up to about 3.6GHz on air cooling. A Q9650 will max out at about 3.8-3.9GHz. To be honest, you'd better off investing in something to allow you to push your Q6600 overclock up higher than an expensive CPU that's only going to let you get about 200MHz extra over the one you have.

[maddogx 13]

You should be able to push your Q6600 up to about 3.6GHz on air cooling. A Q9650 will max out at about 3.8-3.9GHz. To be honest, you'd better off investing in something to allow you to push your Q6600 overclock up higher than an expensive CPU that's only going to let you get about 200MHz extra over the one you have.

Trust me, I've tried that. Cooling really isn't the problem here. According to Intel, the Q6600 can take a maximum voltage of 1.55v before you start risking damage. I braved it as high as 1.51v when trying to OC to 3.6GHz - the computer booted fine and I could do normal stuff like browsing, but I'd get a bluescreen after just 10-15 seconds of Prime95. Temps were around 42°c at idle and crept up to about 50°c before the BSOD. I guess it would have leveled out at just over 60°c, which would normally be fine. I just don't want to push the voltage too far.

From what I understand, the Q9xxx's run with lower stock voltage and thus a lot cooler than the older Q6's, so I'm guessing I could easily reach 4.0GHz with one of those, as opposed to pushing my Q6600 over the limits just for 3.6GHz. I'd rather spend my money on some safe extra performance now rather than risk frying my current CPU and potentially the whole system along with it.

[echo1 0]

The Penryn cores used in the Q9--- series arent particularily overclockable, so while you could probably hit around 4GHz, you'd also be pushing it to the limit of what it's capable of. If you want to play it safe, the performance gain isnt going to be that big.

Tbh, unless you have some urgent and desperate need for that extra few MHz, I'd wait till the Core i5 chips come out later this year, which can supposedly hit 5GHz on air cooling according to some reports. The CPUs and their hardware will be much cheaper than the current i7s.

Edited June 30, 2009 by echo1

[BaseJumper 10]

Anyone know when the ATI/AMD Radeon 5xxx Graphics cards that supports DirectX 11 are coming out ?

[echo1 0]

Originally they were scheduled to be released this month. Last I heard, it was pushed back to October/November.

[echo1 0]

Dell XPS is good Gaming PC

and also studio laptops i always play games on the same :-)

Not really. You pay an arm and a leg for a pretty mediocre specification. Better off getting one from a more specialized builder, or better still, make your own

:)

[Colossus 2]

I got a bit of a problem with my "new" ASUS P5KC mob. which doesn't seem to adjust the CPU fan speed after temprature. It just runs at a constant 2700 RPM which I suppose is 100% speed. My old motherboard, a GA-P35-DS3L (Gigabyte), ran this CPU fan (Zalman CNPS9500A) perfectly fine with iCool. But with this ASUS card neither their own Q-fan controller or SpeedFan works.

Any idea why and/or how I can fix it?

Edited July 3, 2009 by colossus

[echo1 0]

ASUS Q-Fan, AFAIK works over the 4th pin on CPU coolers. Most Zalman fans (except for the one I have, fortunately) only have three pin connectors. Im afraid you're going to have to set up that Fan-Mate yoke that comes in the pack.