Cheiftain

[brooks143 10]

Thats how we all learned mate, no worries there. I am far from a guru mate, but will try and help as much as i can.

I do not have any real knowledge of the proxy's sorry.

Many thanks bud

[Bill70 EW 7]

Hi Brooks143 ,, first off I'd like to compliment you on your work its looking very good and I'm looking forward to trying it out when its finished ..

A couple of things that you might want to think about including into the model ,to make it more realistic .. Though it depends on which Mk of the series you are trying to represent as at the moment the pictures I've seen in your previous posts are showing various mks (lol) ,,

1.The barrel is representing a "pre" IFCS model which would make it either a mk1 or 2 . to rectify this you might want to add a "shroud" to the end of the barrel ( in RL this is known as the MRS (Muzzle Reference System) shroud ,used to align (zero) the sighting systems to the barrel ..

here's a photo showing said shroud http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/chieftain-tank-29236510.jpg

2. Front hull of tank ,glacis plate , in your photos you have two bars attached to the hull in front of the drivers position , this is wrong actually there should be a so called "splash pate" going between the head lights on front of chassis , a photo of which is here https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1154/5138569983_1e1e8b8792_z.jpg This "splash plate" was fitted to stop the driver getting wet when driving through heavy terrain or water ,and believe me it was needed (lol) ....

Apart from that your model is looking really good I've looked through all of your photos here on this post and can only say well done you have put in some very good detail of a tank I used to work on ;) , I can understand how hard it is too do the work you are doing and hope that this information will help you to develop your mod into a worthy model of a chieftain !!

Just so you know I served in a Chieftain REGT between 1984-1996 ,if I can help you in anyway historically then please get in touch ,, I think Egg will vouch for me as I've advised him on how the chieftains work (lol) ...

Best of luck to your development of this mod .

Regards Bill70 ( Phil)

[brooks143 10]

Hi Brooks143 ,, first off I'd like to compliment you on your work its looking very good and I'm looking forward to trying it out when its finished ..

A couple of things that you might want to think about including into the model ,to make it more realistic .. Though it depends on which Mk of the series you are trying to represent as at the moment the pictures I've seen in your previous posts are showing various mks (lol) ,,

1.The barrel is representing a "pre" IFCS model which would make it either a mk1 or 2 . to rectify this you might want to add a "shroud" to the end of the barrel ( in RL this is known as the MRS (Muzzle Reference System) shroud ,used to align (zero) the sighting systems to the barrel ..

here's a photo showing said shroud http://thumbs.dreamstime.com/z/chieftain-tank-29236510.jpg

2. Front hull of tank ,glacis plate , in your photos you have two bars attached to the hull in front of the drivers position , this is wrong actually there should be a so called "splash pate" going between the head lights on front of chassis , a photo of which is here https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1154/5138569983_1e1e8b8792_z.jpg This "splash plate" was fitted to stop the driver getting wet when driving through heavy terrain or water ,and believe me it was needed (lol) ....

Apart from that your model is looking really good I've looked through all of your photos here on this post and can only say well done you have put in some very good detail of a tank I used to work on ;) , I can understand how hard it is too do the work you are doing and hope that this information will help you to develop your mod into a worthy model of a chieftain !!

Just so you know I served in a Chieftain REGT between 1984-1996 ,if I can help you in anyway historically then please get in touch ,, I think Egg will vouch for me as I've advised him on how the chieftains work (lol) ...

Best of luck to your development of this mod .

Regards Bill70 ( Phil)

thank you for the advise, i wasn't shore whether to add the splash plate and Mrs Shroud.

what regiment was in. Was it the skins by any chance.

[Bill70 EW 7]

yes m8 it was hence the picture ;)

[brooks143 10]

thought so bud.

fixed and sorted proxy problem.

Edited July 18, 2014 by brooks143

[brooks143 10]

found a bit of a problem with lights. any answers to get the black out line to be see through like it should be.

[sv5000 127]

Whilst I am not texture expert mate, I think its related to an alpha channel in your texture. I could be wayyy off here but how does your texture compare to a BI one?

[brooks143 10]

the texture is from the warrior BI examples. its just abit weird that it does this.

[brooks143 10]

also how do you tranfer uv map to oxygen2 from 3dmax

[nodunit 397]

Whenever you export 3ds format or .obj there will be an option to export the UV maps, otherwise they are kept automatically.

Your lights are having trouble because there is no alpha channel, depending on what paint program you are using you need to go into channels tab and create a new layer, this will be your alpha channel, then copy and paste the light (it should be white for this channel) exactly where the light is on the RGB channels.

Alpha channels are greyscale, the purest form of white is the most solid while the purest black is completely transparent, and anything in between varies.

http://gametextures.com/blog/2014/01/14/putting-your-texture-in-an-alpha-channel-using-photoshop/

[brooks143 10]

Whenever you export 3ds format or .obj there will be an option to export the UV maps, otherwise they are kept automatically.

Your lights are having trouble because there is no alpha channel, depending on what paint program you are using you need to go into channels tab and create a new layer, this will be your alpha channel, then copy and paste the light (it should be white for this channel) exactly where the light is on the RGB channels.

Alpha channels are greyscale, the purest form of white is the most solid while the purest black is completely transparent, and anything in between varies.

http://gametextures.com/blog/2014/01/14/putting-your-texture-in-an-alpha-channel-using-photoshop/

so i still need to add the alphas to the lights. even though i got them from the warrior/abrams examples files from BIS and just copied them across too mine.

[nodunit 397]

open the file textview 2 or textureviewer2..whatever its called these days and click the tab that says RGBA, scroll down and click Alpha. If there is no black and white texture then the image has no alpha channel, also if you took the file but did not add the _ca extension at the end then it will not show as a color alpha.

[hcpookie 3770]

so i still need to add the alphas to the lights. even though i got them from the warrior/abrams examples files from BIS and just copied them across too mine.

Brake lights. You'll need to ensure your model.cfg includes the proper entries:

sections[]= {

...

"zadni svetlo","brzdove svetlo","p svetlo","l svetlo",

...

};

Any time you have a light that is "always on" you need to make sure the model.cfg has the proper entries. The alpha channel is of course required, but a copy/paste should already have that. Probably - maybe - due to missing entry in the model.cfg.

If it still does that after you add it to the model.cfg, you may need to point it to a new RVMAT which what I do is copy/paste the existing, unbin it, and then edit it to point to your new textures. Crappy thing to need to do but sometimes you have no choice.

Also make sure you "move top" the light polygons when you are nearly complete to ensure they render "on top" of the other polygons. Makes a strange "behind the polygon" render effect if you don't have them "on top".

Edited July 21, 2014 by hcpookie

[brooks143 10]

Hcpookie you are correct sir it was the RVmat Being stupid. so i did what you said and it works.

many thanks

Edited July 22, 2014 by brooks143

[brooks143 10]

Whenever you export 3ds format or .obj there will be an option to export the UV maps, otherwise they are kept automatically.

Your lights are having trouble because there is no alpha channel, depending on what paint program you are using you need to go into channels tab and create a new layer, this will be your alpha channel, then copy and paste the light (it should be white for this channel) exactly where the light is on the RGB channels.

Alpha channels are greyscale, the purest form of white is the most solid while the purest black is completely transparent, and anything in between varies.

http://gametextures.com/blog/2014/01/14/putting-your-texture-in-an-alpha-channel-using-photoshop/

is it possible, too import just the uv mapping from 3dsmax too oxygen 2. Or will i have too import the hole model again.

[brooks143 10]

Can someone reply on this, so i can get started if it the case of importing again.

[brooks143 10]

Update in game photo's. just texturing too do:D

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[sv5000 127]

looking epic mate

[ShadowFox93 10]

It looks very impressive, will we be able to choose between different types of camo? Is it any chance to see more British tanks and apc's from you in future?

[brooks143 10]

i am going to have 2 camo with the vehicle. Not shore how long this is going to take but i might do something after this. something a bit smaller.

[bk1276 0]

is there any chance that one of the cams will be the berlin brigade cam

[brooks143 10]

yes there is a chance

[Munkie 10]

Love the build of this, is amazing.

To skin this will you be uploading any psd's?

Many thanks

Jai

[brooks143 10]

i am looking at doing that. as i cant texture every variant of camo. it would take me a while as this mod is a 1 man band build.

[dockie27 11]

This looks amazing! I'll be following it closely... thanks again, Brooks!