tvamvarg 0 Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) Sigh. The Arduino drivers won't install for me with my Chinese Pro Micro board. Probably a dud? Tried both 64 bit and 32 bit Windows 7 to be sure. Edit: actually, it worked, I just used the wrong drivers. Had to get Sparkfun drivers from here (it wasn't that obvious to me...) FaceTrack is a go, now on to configuration... Ok, some questions on that: - I get it to work pretty well in infantry mode; i have only yaw and pitch enabled (i.e. look left/right and up/down). - When I jump into a heli or plane, it's all up in the air (yeah); head roll is suddenly a go, and sensitivity is waay up. Why?? Dev branch thingy? - I must be stupid, but I can't get the 'center' key to bite while in Arma. Is there a setting somewhere that I need to make it 'global'? Edited March 17, 2014 by tvamvarg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f2k sel 164 Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) What message are you getting? I've about given up even though a got a GY80 to replace the previous Gyro I can't work out how I'm supposed it wire it up. Edited March 17, 2014 by F2k Sel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvamvarg 0 Posted March 18, 2014 That's too bad. The GY80 seems competent, which sketch are you using? Are you trying to use other than the gyro? Wiring should be something like this for gyro functionality I suppose? You really should try to re-wire the MPU6050 to the Arduino board using shorter wires and run a longer USB cable instead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f2k sel 164 Posted March 18, 2014 (edited) All the arduinos seem to be wired differently. I thought you may be using the wrong drivers as that's exactly what I did, I couldn't see the correct driver in the list no matter how hard I looked. I did try the shorter wire but it still has issues it keeps jumping 3-4 degrees every few seconds. I think I have the GY80 wired now but again hit another brick wall. The software. Edited March 18, 2014 by F2k Sel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvamvarg 0 Posted March 19, 2014 I get drift sometimes. I also get strange effects, like suddenly pitch is inverted in Arma (and I have to alt-tab and check or uncheck 'invert pitch', depending on how it was set, to get it right again). And sometimes I get roll although that axis is disabled in the Hatire. So maybe that driver still has some way to go. That said, if I get the drift, I put my headset down and upload the sketch again. And it's good to go again, no more drift. Can't say if the strange stuff appears due to me putting the computer to sleep and waking it? Need to test further. Anyway, when it works, it works really well. So cool! The rest is up to me to learn to use it ingame :) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f2k sel 164 Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) tvamvarg, Rather than upload the sketch have you tried unplugging the USB, uploading simulates unplugging as well. I have my GY80 working, I'm still not %100 happy, drift is vastly reduced compared to my previous MPU6050. However is seems a little slower and pitch always seem to add a turn. There are calibrations that my help but it's little complex, I'll try those later. Pitch down always adds look right and up adds in look left, so the effect is somewhat floaty. Edited March 19, 2014 by F2k Sel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
miniYo 10 Posted March 22, 2014 just buyed the items... now waiting for them. :p Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newboerg 10 Posted April 1, 2014 Price Update: Just bought some Pro mini microcontroller boards for 2,80€ free shipping.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
telejunky 0 Posted April 1, 2014 Yeah I got a pro mini for 4€ from china. But there was no declaration on the package... I had to drive to the customs authority which is at the end of my city. Saving 2€ for driving 1,5h in total^^ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
frawo 10 Posted April 3, 2014 Price Update:Just bought some Pro mini microcontroller boards for 2,80€ free shipping.... Is this another april's fool? ;) Anyway, thanks for sharing this project! I just received my boards from china (~4 Euro each), now I realized I'm missing the right cable. Will a standard cable with usb micro b adapter also do the job? Grüße aus der Lüneburger Heide! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
newboerg 10 Posted April 3, 2014 just take those standard smartphone charging cables... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CaptainObvious 95 Posted April 4, 2014 just take those standard smartphone charging cables... There are charging cables that lack the actual data wires inside, they won't work, I don't mean to sound like a besserwisser but I think you mean data cables. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tvamvarg 0 Posted April 7, 2014 You probably found out already but usually the cables that come with smartphones are for both charging and data, since you are supposed to be able to also connect the phone to your PC and transfer stuff. So yes, that should work fine in most cases. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
duckii 1 Posted April 10, 2014 Sorry, I'm new to all this but got my MPU-6050 and Pro Micro. I know that you have to be super careful with the soldering iron on the semi conductors but what kind of cables should I use for the wiring? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f2k sel 164 Posted April 11, 2014 I'd stay away from single core and go with multiple strands as they're more flexible and less likely to break. Also if there are fibbers mixed in with the wire I'd avoid them as they are hard to solder. You should also apply solder to the wires first, they should turn silver with solder when they're ready. Some times wires can resist solder if they're coated with a varnish, you can try and rub this of with emery cloth, also using flux helps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
koschy8 10 Posted April 11, 2014 Hi everyone!I tried all the versions of newboerg's arduino files but it was very unstable for me so i ported my algorithm into newboerg source. It is mutch better now, but still need some tweaking. Here you can download the ino file. NOTE: The device must be stationary for a 1-2 sec after and durring plugging in(Calibration). I was experiencing significant yaw drift with the other sketches, so I tried this one. No drift, but somehow the sensor's reactions to movements are incredibly tiny. For example if I turn the board 45 degrees in any direction it'll only register a few degrees raw input in FTNoIR. Any idea why this could be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
surreptr 0 Posted April 11, 2014 I found that increasing the initialization/setup samples in the sketch from 1 seconds worth to 10 seconds worth has greatly reduced yaw drift. I leave my unit on the table for at least 10 seconds when powering it up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doveman 7 Posted April 18, 2014 I've got a GY-85 now that I want to try but I'm a bit confused about the correct wiring. With the MPU-6050, we wire 2 and 3 to SDA and SCL but according to the picture here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1677559 with the GY-85 we wire A2 and A3 to SDA and SCL, so I'm wondering what the difference between A2/A3 and 2/3 is and why the two projects are using different outputs from the Arduino? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Falconeye 10 Posted April 18, 2014 I tried to use Facetrack noir but unfortunaltely, it doesn't provide accuracy like a true trackIR but be aware not taking the track clip pro which is very easy to break (mine lasted just 5 days) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bullhorn 18 Posted April 18, 2014 It's my luck. I bought TrackIR5 today, 5 hours before I found this thread. :p Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f2k sel 164 Posted April 19, 2014 I've got a GY-85 now that I want to try but I'm a bit confused about the correct wiring. With the MPU-6050, we wire 2 and 3 to SDA and SCL but according to the picture here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1677559 with the GY-85 we wire A2 and A3 to SDA and SCL, so I'm wondering what the difference between A2/A3 and 2/3 is and why the two projects are using different outputs from the Arduino? I've got the GY80 and that still uses 2/3. I haven't been impressed as yet with the GY80 as it seems sluggish compared to the GY521. Probably because I've never calibrated it. Sebatian has supposedly worked up a fix and some calibration software. The software seems to work and can see the GY80 but that's about as far as I can get. I don't know how or where the calibrations are being written. Even if I just try the uncalibrated software FT can't see it any more. I've been hoping to get a reply from Sebastian but it's been a week now with no answer. I'm thinking of going back to the GY521 and trying A2/A3 if I don't get a response in the next week or so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Valken 622 Posted April 22, 2014 (edited) I've been looking at something like this then realized I have an Android phone with gyro. So has anybody tried the free Head Track Android via this original blog article: By request: Here is the email I sent Dan about how to set this up. Note that unfortunately the XiaTek website is down, but I’ve got the files at home, I’ll upload them when I get home tonight (approx 7PM EST). If you want to know if your phone has a gyroscope inside, a quick google search turns up THIS LIST. Note- I use a Google Nexus for mine. DOWNLOAD -> INSTALL -> UNZIP -> SETUPS -> FLYBUNCHES DOWNLOAD + INSTALL 1. On your phone, hit up the app store and download Head Track (The one authored by C0BRA) 2. Download: http://facetracknoir.sourceforge.net/home/default.htm 3. Download: http://files.xiatek.org/HeadTrack/HeadTrack_Server.zip EDIT - Use this link for the server software thanks to WayBackMachine INSTALL 4. Install FACETRACK NOIR UNZIP 5. Unzip the headtrack server bit to your facetrack’s client folder (Defaultly: C:\Program Files (x86)\Abbequerque Inc\FacetrackNOIR\Clients\ maybe?) 6. Make a shortcut to this folder. Just. …. just do it. You might end up going back to this folder a bunch so it’s just easier. SETUPS 7. Connect to your home WIFI on your phone. You will need the local ip addresses for your PHONE and COMPUTER. You can find your comp’s with ipconfig, and you can find your phone’s by bringing up the list of available WIFI networks and clicking the one you’re connected to. It brings up info about your network, the bottom of which is your phone’s local IP (mine was 192.168.1.8) 8. Now, the author says the “default†setup worked best for him, but it didnt work as well for me. I changed it to use the EWMA setup he’s got there. I changed the Options.cfg (In \Abbequerque Inc\FacetrackNOIR\Clients\HeadTrack_Server) to use “EWMA.lua†instead of “Default.lua†You can also just rename Default.lua to DefaultX.lua just to set it aside – then rename EWMA.lua to Default.lua. Either way, “Default†seems to have some sort of ‘limit’ where, if you turn past it, resets your view to straight ahead. Not good for ol’ exorcism Nik, whose character can crane his head around 180degrees. 9. Ensure your firewall (on your PC, not router) is off, or allows incoming connections on port 61 (From XiaTek’s setup page: http://xiatek.org/?p=326) 10. Adhere your phone to your head using crazy glue and/or 3M 77 super spray adhesive.FLYBUNCHES Start up Facetrack NOIR. Set the rightmost dropdown menu to FacetrackNOIR Client, then hit SETTINGS. Put in your phone’s IP address. Set the middle dropdown to FacetrackNOIR Client, hit START TRACKING Run SGE.exe, this can be found in your facetrack’s client folder (\Abbequerque Inc\FacetrackNOIR\Clients\HeadTrack_Server), it brings up a big grid field in a window with some lines running across it. On your phone, run the headtrack app, type in your computer’s IP address, and hit “ON†The grid thing on your comp should be responding to your phone movin around. The up and down might be backwards but holy shit I just now realized that you can just turn your phone upside down. Dude I was in programs totally remapping inputs and stuff and ALL I NEEDED TO DO WAS TURN THE FUCKIN PHONE UPSIDE DOWN! FUCK. Within ARMA, you might have to go to options > Controls > Devices and “enable†the FaceTrackNoIR device. Alternatively, you can just go into individual view controls, double click them, and add things from the list on the right hand side (TrackIR X Axis +, for example). Oh hey, this is important: When ingame, SCROLL LOCK is the button that “resets†your view to center. Sometimes your view gets kind of skewed, just hit scroll lock to recenter that bad boy. I will try this when I can find some free time. Edit -- android APK file here in case Google store looses the file. Use this link for the PC server software thanks to WayBackMachine Edited April 23, 2014 by Valken Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doveman 7 Posted April 23, 2014 I've got the GY80 and that still uses 2/3. I haven't been impressed as yet with the GY80 as it seems sluggish compared to the GY521.Probably because I've never calibrated it. Sebatian has supposedly worked up a fix and some calibration software. The software seems to work and can see the GY80 but that's about as far as I can get. I don't know how or where the calibrations are being written. Even if I just try the uncalibrated software FT can't see it any more. I've been hoping to get a reply from Sebastian but it's been a week now with no answer. I'm thinking of going back to the GY521 and trying A2/A3 if I don't get a response in the next week or so. Thanks, I guess I can try 2/3 or A2/A3 to see if one works better than the other. I only just reflashed my MPU-6050 with the spring-reset firmware and found it was still drifiting back towards centre a lot, even though I left the headset still on the table after flashing it and after starting FTNoIR before putting it on my head but I need to test a bit more as I only did a quick test. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
f2k sel 164 Posted April 23, 2014 I got a little further with the GY80 updated software. At least FT sees it now. However no matter what I do I seem to get one axis effecting the other and then flipping direction. I'm told this is due to it being upside down but I've tried it in every possible way. Even using the calibration software it still seems poor at best. I'll have one more bash tonight and if it still fails I'm going to try the other connections, if it breaks it breaks it's no use as it is. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites