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Victor_S.

PC Discussion Thread - All PC related in here.

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Cisco is always on the 1st place,best quality...my friend just bought Cisco 1812 Router for about 1500$ ,but there are also cheaper variants and different series of course.

Yikes!  wow_o.gif

I'm only one person who have 2 active computers and a 360. I'm not running a company here.

You're much better off with a Linksys than a very cheap Cisco (Linksys is the daughter-company and use most of the same technologies).

I think I'll keep this Dlink DIR-635. It suits my needs perfectly. Got it very cheap too (€60).

Quote[/b] ]i am currently having some problem on one of my working computer, it always suddently shutdown when loading photos in a digital image print service softward, or while just loading somethings in explorer, also when i try to reboot it just turns completely shut down, i tried to run chkdsk, but it seems to freeze and shutdown again, never get the BSOD, and just checked that there are no overheatings and all fans work...

Have you made sure the CPU heatzink is properly seated on the CPU? Even if you dont see any overheating a CPU can easily reach shutdown-temperatures within seconds when doing simply things such as opening a picture and searching/browsing drives at the same time.

There was this one time one of the four corners on the frame around the CPU that held the heatzink broke (P-IV socket 478). I didnt see any overheating, but as soon as I started OFP it would shutdown when I single-clicked anything on the main menu. It reached 95 degrees at shutdown and was already down to 80 10 seconds later when I entered the BIOS.

Turned out the heatzink was'nt in proper contact with the CPU due to one of the clamps on the heatzink wasnt holding onto anything.

thats what i am going to do, today when i retest it i found that the CPU are on 80 most of the time, 75 when stand down a bit, when i take away the crapy fan and cooler i find that most of the thermal compound have dried out, going to see if it works after i replace it with new one

oh yeah, i am thinking to OC my E6600 slightly to see how well it can do, but i am using the intel fan, would that be a problem?(fact is, my case is too crowed, so i dont want to use any bigass fan, any fan which creat a hugeass noise is no go too, cause my PC is placed at the end of my bed, just next to my also-too-crowed non-computer table....)

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@4 In 1- first better get those temps down before even thinking of OC. Core Duo's are pretty OC friendly not requiring insane voltage to up your FSB so your intel fan should be fine for moderate OC. Of course, much depends on your Mobo and how OC'able that is- OK?  biggrin_o.gif

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Cisco is always on the 1st place,best quality...my friend just bought Cisco 1812 Router for about 1500$ ,but there are also cheaper variants and different series of course.

Yikes! wow_o.gif

I'm only one person who have 2 active computers and a 360. I'm not running a company here.

You're much better off with a Linksys than a very cheap Cisco (Linksys is the daughter-company and use most of the same technologies).

I think I'll keep this Dlink DIR-635. It suits my needs perfectly. Got it very cheap too (€60).

Quote[/b] ]i am currently having some problem on one of my working computer, it always suddently shutdown when loading photos in a digital image print service softward, or while just loading somethings in explorer, also when i try to reboot it just turns completely shut down, i tried to run chkdsk, but it seems to freeze and shutdown again, never get the BSOD, and just checked that there are no overheatings and all fans work...

Have you made sure the CPU heatzink is properly seated on the CPU? Even if you dont see any overheating a CPU can easily reach shutdown-temperatures within seconds when doing simply things such as opening a picture and searching/browsing drives at the same time.

There was this one time one of the four corners on the frame around the CPU that held the heatzink broke (P-IV socket 478). I didnt see any overheating, but as soon as I started OFP it would shutdown when I single-clicked anything on the main menu. It reached 95 degrees at shutdown and was already down to 80 10 seconds later when I entered the BIOS.

Turned out the heatzink was'nt in proper contact with the CPU due to one of the clamps on the heatzink wasnt holding onto anything.

thats what i am going to do, today when i retest it i found that the CPU are on 80 most of the time, 75 when stand down a bit, when i take away the crapy fan and cooler i find that most of the thermal compound have dried out, going to see if it works after i replace it with new one

oh yeah, i am thinking to OC my E6600 slightly to see how well it can do, but i am using the intel fan, would that be a problem?(fact is, my case is too crowed, so i dont want to use any bigass fan, any fan which creat a hugeass noise is no go too, cause my PC is placed at the end of my bed, just next to my also-too-crowed non-computer table....)

Its quite possible that if you have a recent Intel standard fan that there is no thermal paste - just a thermal pad which is more solid than paste. 80 degrees seems pretty normal (I presume you mean farenheit, right? :P )

Overclocking is best done with a more high quality fan. They dont have to be massive or very noisy. An Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro are quite cheap yet very effective/quiet (dont have any personal experience but I consistently see reviewers referring to them as the best). Though I wouldnt bother trying to overclock your PC if it has some cheapass PSU, overclocked CPUs draw more energy, and to get the most of them, you need to over-volt. Both these things can put a cheap unit under stress. You should consider investing in a higher quality PSU - one thats about €100 or so.

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Imho,stock coolers are crap in most cases smile_o.gif

Not if you have no intention on overclocking. AMD's stock cooler for the Socket AM2 is very quiet (at the lowest setting when not under load you have to put your ear right up against it to hear it) and is very effective (The highest temps I saw were 30oC under load). Then again, it was a Sempron.... whistle.gif

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Quote[/b] ]An Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro are quite cheap yet very effective/quiet (dont have any personal experience but I consistently see reviewers referring to them as the best)

Hmm if he dont want to OC he should take Freezer,but for middle and higher OC there are better coolers.

Quote[/b] ]You should consider investing in a higher quality PSU - one thats about €100 or so.

Strongly agree.No point of OC with some cheapass PSU.

Quote[/b] ]Then again, it was a Sempron....

There u go..rofl

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Quote[/b] ]An Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro are quite cheap yet very effective/quiet (dont have any personal experience but I consistently see reviewers referring to them as the best)

Hmm if he dont want to OC he should take Freezer,but for middle and higher OC there are better coolers.

But then again, he said "I dont want a massive fan that makes a lot of noise". Arctic Cooling is a sensible option.

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But then again, he said "I dont want a massive fan that makes a lot of noise". Arctic Cooling is a sensible option.

Noise...that can be easly reduced with fan controllers. But nevermind... wink_o.gif

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sorry to be misinfo but my working computer in office is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay less powerful then my home one which i am intend to OC biggrin_o.gif

there are one more problem for the OC ing through, as i dont know where to find a good one in hong kong(cause i am too lazy to go for a walk) tounge2.gif

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CPU overheating problem fixed

erm.......some new help........again

this time its my 8800GTS playing with me, right now i couldnt start a single game, every time it crash & reboot or simply halt there, am i missing something?

driver version 158.16, without ntune

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just reinstall my driver and it seems to work, i dunno if it is the overheating which casus it but it stay 74 while i play ArmA demo confused_o.gif

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just reinstall my driver and it seems to work, i dunno if it is the overheating which casus it but it stay 74 while i play ArmA demo confused_o.gif

Try a different driver. Some of the recent drivers have reported wrong temperatures and some are just plain unstable.

By looking at your trackrecord here I'm assuming you got the drivers that both report wrong temp and are unstable biggrin_o.gif

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just reinstall my driver and it seems to work, i dunno if it is the overheating which casus it but it stay 74 while i play ArmA demo confused_o.gif

Try a different driver. Some of the recent drivers have reported wrong temperatures and some are just plain unstable.

By looking at your trackrecord here I'm assuming you got the drivers that both report wrong temp and are unstable biggrin_o.gif

erm in fact i have tried ALL of them, all get the same temp

edit: strange things are: when i close my pc case the part where the hot air comes out bearly heats up, but when i open the case, the heat at that part goes up quite a lot, is that my case acturally helping the card to cool down, or is it the other way around?

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...when i close my pc case the part where the hot air comes out bearly heats up, but when i open the case, the heat at that part goes up quite a lot...

What parts?

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...when i close my pc case the part where the hot air comes out bearly heats up, but when i open the case, the heat at that part goes up quite a lot...

What parts?

the fan hot air exit and the area around it, did i miss anything here? confused_o.gif

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4 IN 1 :

1)How many fans do u have?

2)Where are they placed in your case,exact positions?

3)Can u use some software like Everest Ultimate and report temps of your components...

4)Make some free space in your case (remove cables from the middle of a case to alow air to circulate normal

5)Best solution:take some pics and put them here (if u can)

wink_o.gif

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oh, yeah i just got one

right now it somewhat looks like this:

cimg1188kf2.th.jpg

kind of messy, really, oh and the recent change is that i put the ATA raid card to the upper PCI slot and the lower one for the SB X-fi

you know i somehow started to hate these bloody hugeass display card

edit: the ide cable has been move to a more low profile and is not blocking the fan intake, orthrough i have some round IED cable but those were broken and i have no time to replace them

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A real cable mess rofl.gif .

You should wrap all the PSU cables and stick them to the sides of the frame, its crap work but worth it.

If you can organise the cable mess and move the front intakes higher it should make quite a diference improving the air flow.

My frame has 1 huge 12cm front intake with nothing in its way (1 HD bellow, DVD players above) and this sitting in my CPU, it takes advantage of the open/clear air intake and blows out directly thru the back of the frame (dont even need outakes = less molex cables where they dont have to be).

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A real cable mess rofl.gif .

You should wrap all the PSU cables and stick them to the sides of the frame, its crap work but worth it.

 If you can organise the cable mess and move the front intakes higher it should make quite a diference improving the air flow.

My frame has 1 huge 12cm front intake with nothing in its way (1 HD bellow, DVD players above) and this  sitting in my CPU, it takes advantage of the open/clear air intake and blows out directly thru the back of the frame (dont even need outakes = less molex cables where they dont have to be).

i need to get a workshop inorder to do this confused_o.gif

in fact the CPU itself is doing quite well even on full load, the problem is at the buttom

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i need to get a workshop inorder to do this confused_o.gif

in fact the CPU itself is doing quite well even on full load, the problem is at the buttom

The "problem" is not localised. Any high end PC will generate heat and you need a good airflow inside the case to keep it cool, summer is coming...

You have low intakes, high outakes and a cable mess in betwean. This means hot air concentration inside the case.

If you can line up the intake/outake fans and organise those cables you can even remove some of the extra fans (less cables, less noise)... thumbs-up.gif .

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A real cable mess rofl.gif ....

A mess? Yes, but it doesnt block the air. He's using round IDE-cables on everything except the drives at the bottom which is only one cable.

I'm more concerned with his rear fans.

If they suck air out of the case and the power-supply does the same it wont be much air left for the CPU-fan. Effectively those fans create a vacuum around the CPU-fan.

I would start by disconnecting the two 80mm fans below the power-supply to see if that helps the CPU-temp. The power-supply will run hotter because all air in the case will go through it but its nothing to worry about.

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Well he was complaining about graphics card temp, and he has 2 80mm low intakes so what came to mind was hot air concentrating inside the frame due to bad air flow.

I would have picked a diferent case if i were him whistle.gif ...

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