RedRogue

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (RalphWiggum @ Aug. 03 2002,00:31)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">nothing changed much..OFPR turned out to be great, and new netcode works like charm.<span id='postcolor'> For you perhaps.

Warranty and in-store replacement are two totally seperate issues. Depending on the warranty service which is always this way with M$ you would actually have to send it to Microsoft Warranty repair service at your cost. Then wait 2-4 weeks when they send it back with a bill for labor since ONLY parts are covered outside 6 months. Sometimes some retailers are curteous enough to except a exchange on something outside their return policy. They will recieve credit for the item anyway when they send their Non-sellable items back to the companies. But if worst comes to worst and you don't feel like repairing it yourself you can always do the slightly underhanded method of buying a replacement and then returning the defective one in the new box with a handy receipt to the store. The store doesn't lose any money on this for all those that didn't know. Because any defective item in stock is NRA back to the manufacturor for credit on the stocking price of the item.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Assault (CAN) @ Aug. 02 2002,22:27)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Actually, another platoon found a Racoon in their tent lines, so they beat it to death with their rifles. The people who beat it were promptly charged by the MP's and for a good reason. That kind of thing isn't allowed, all animals are protected on base. Tyler<span id='postcolor'> Ah, whats the world coming to when you can't beat a racoon with a rifle butt.

About the funniest damn thing I've ever seen.

The screws are under the little rubber footpads. If the cable connection h as truely become faulty a little solder application should fix it easily. Note: When you take the footpads off they don't stick as well when you put them back on, a little dab of a light epoxy will fix this.

You can get them here for Creative products. Simply select your Region Then your product (Soundblaster Live) Then your Live type and then finally your OS.

With charcoal you get heat without the flames actually touching/burning the food if its done properly. In my experience I've always prefered charcoal and have both a charcoal pit and a gas grill. Gas is nice for when you don't have much time or your just cooking one thing. If its something with more preperation I like to use charcoal.

Hmm let me remember my first "experience" with a firearm. I believe I was 8 or 9, could have been 10. But anyway my dad decided it was time to instruct me in firearm safety and operation so I could go with him during deer and turkey season. Anyway, he gets out his 22. semi-auto and we go into the holler and he sets up some paper targets. First he shoots a bit showing me what to do and what not to do. Then he hands me the rifle and carefully helps me place my firing hand and shoulder the rifle properly. Then noticing I'm having trouble supporting the rifle on the forward stock because its a heavy ass .22 and I'm not even a teenager he slides my hand back a bit under the action. Now the shooting begins, or so I thought. I line up the target carefully in the sights and gently squeeze the trigger. And I IMMEDIATLY feel a SEARING pain in my left hand. My dad in his infinant Wisdom of helping me hold the rifle better placed my hand precisely under the ejector plate. So after ALMOST dropping the rifle on the spot and yelling and cursing and waving my hand around I look to see a nice 2nd degree burn of a .22 casing in the palm of my hand. After that I refused to even touch a real firearm for the better part of a year being content with my pellet gun that thought (stupidly) couldn't hurt me. Of course when my younger sister was taught by my dad later and she started shooting .22s often I wasn't about to be unstaged by a ... girl... so I overcame my hesitation to the burn sticks.... er firearms and have been hunting for many years since.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Duke_of_Ray @ Aug. 01 2002,22:32)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Its all very simple, Without Evil there would be no Good. They are one and the same. There would be no light is there was no darkness. And no darkness if there was no light.<span id='postcolor'> Without evil there would be all good, and without good there would be all Evil, same goes for darkness and light. <span id='postcolor'> Think about it harder. If there was no such thing as Evil then there would be no Good because there would be nothing opposite to compare what Good is. Good is the opposite of Evil, so without Evil there is nothing opposite to be Good. Same for light and darkness, Without light darkness would just be what is not what is when there is an absence of light. Good and Evil are interdenpendant without one you can't have the other.

Its all very simple, Without Evil there would be no Good. They are one and the same. There would be no light is there was no darkness. And no darkness if there was no light.

You really shouldn't make multiple posts. That is rude in itself as a user. Comeon Warin its already been like an hour since you closed the sister thread. Ah your probably to embedded into some heavy reading I just happen to know of.

You aren't alone in your thinking. The elder mods are probably the best balanced ones I've ever seen on a forum. The others well most are pretty good, the remaining... well I'll keep that to myself for now. Oh and I predict the usual, "It you have a issue with a moderator please Private Message him/her <sic> so they can ignore it privately <sic>" ,before the sun comes up here...

Well now that we have hjacked this thread long enough does everyone feel better? Both of you made commets that where uncalled for. Lazarus had full right to make comments on why in his opinion the M60 had attributes that where better than the M240B/G. Honestly Denoir you did spark this whole this with comments that degraded Lazarus's training, and competance. Then of course this was furthered with his rebutles. Now everything is said and done and cannot be changed. So can we get back to the origin on my thread. I know alot about military equipment not only thru living with family in the military but because my occupation and curiosity demands it. But I do not have a large basis of what people that have actually learned and used these weapons feel of them. This er... debate on the FN family of weapons and others has been informative. Now I am also curious to opinons of the M16, M4 and such mainstream weapons of those that have used them in exercises and extensively and what they think of them. So if you would indulge me I would appreciate it.

I rarely ask something that I can look up for myself. But I was unable to find the weapon designation that the M243 is from. I've really gotten to like using it in Recon (America's Army) and was curious about its origins. My other question is there a variant that is chambered for 7.62 Nato? If there is I would like to know from anyone that has perhaps used both calibers and what the difference is in controllability, reliability, use, and overall performance in their opinion.

Warin, It would be terribly unwise to train and plan for terrain in a "current conflict" only. What he is more likely refering to is the terrain in which he has trained on. Denoir, Would you like some petrol to help the flames out? Guess mods keep their own stock handy for that anyway. But more to the subject at hand. As far as I know most infantry combat personell in the US Army do not get to choose a weapon, they are assigned one. Is it the wrong piece of equipment for the terrain/situation... yes. But it would be the fault of those in command and logistics not the soilder that tries to do the best with what they are given.

Bernadotte if you want to know a real cause to why Amtrack and  America's rail system in general has so many accidents. All you have to look at is the rail system in the United States is relic from the 1800s and early 1900s. When the track was laid and designed it was intended for engines that could only push 40-60mph. Not today's trains that can do 80-120+. Plus actual maintenance of the track is another issue. http://www.ndol.org/blueprint/2001_sep-oct/21_back_on_track.html Also thats a poor understanding of statistics. 2 accidents per year is an average. Some years they may have had 4 some others 1 or none. It doesn't mean they will ONLY have 2 derailments per year. Its like having 110% of something, its not possible because you can only have 100% or all of something.

However if I remeber correctly the fins on the APFSDS (<<correct acronym?) are angled to spin the sabot in the air. So you get the gyrostabilization of rotation without the resistance of rifling. Plus smoothbores are much easier to clean and less prone to loading issues caused by rifling.

I'll swear, no wonder I had so much trouble trying to look it up. I knew it was M249 but every time I typed it my mind kept saying M243 which is not a designation for anything if I remember. I guess my next question would be better answered by someone currently in US Army service. I know the M249 is being fielded more for the M60 but is the M240b also being fielded as much or is the Army trying to go totally 5.56? I had the pleasure/aggrivation of firing a M60 once (Familiy in the military has its perks). The only thing I really learned out of the experience was if you don't have the belt positioned just right it was almost guarenteed to jam. This one had a ovalish ring tacked to the side to help keep the belt positioned properly and I still managed to jam it 3 times.

How exactly is this a pointless topic?

Hmm, well I understood it enough to know that he was just wanting to share a little trick he pulled in a jeep. Granted the description could have been better. To me it was also a invitation for others to describe stunts they have pulled.

Step by Step Guide to Find possible hardware issues: 1. Remove all the components from the computer except The Motherboard with the BIOS reset via jumpers with the jumpers then returned to the normal mode. The PowerSupply of proper capacity The Video Card that is known to be of working order. 1 Stick of of Memory at the proper rating for the Motherboard that is known to be in good working state inserted in Slot 0. This means No disk drives connected, No Hard Drives no Sound Cards, no nothing. 2. Now with these bare minimal components installed check for a POST screen and proper fan function. If there is no POST then it is almost certain that you have a defective motherboard. 3. If the POST screen completes and then gives you "Insert system disk and press any key" this is good. 4. Now power down the computer and attach your Hardrive. If this drive is going to be the only HD installed in this computer it is advisable to pull off the Master/Slave jumpers next to its IDE connector. Some motherboards have issues with HDs being set to Master if they are the only drive installed. No jumpers is the undocumented Single Drive setting for HDs. 5. Now power the computer back up and wait for the POST. If the drive installed was blank then you should still get the "Insert System Disk and Press any key message". 6. Keep adding single components to the computer each time checking for a successfull boot. If after installing a component the computer refuses to boot then remove said component and make sure the computer will boot without it. You will know know the culprit component. Lesson: Never try to install all components to a computer then flip the switch hoping that all will be well.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bn880 @ July 20 2002,17:13)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (jawk @ July 20 2002,10:48)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"> Unless your brakes are overheating or weak, never use the engine to brake with, you are putting stress on components that are 100x more expensive than brake pads and rotors.<span id='postcolor'><span id='postcolor'> Engine braking, or the practice of using the internal compression of a internal combustion engine to slow a vehicle is far less stressful on the internal components than you think. Acceleration and constant high rpm runs are the most stressful uses of an engine. This is the time which the Pistons, Rings, Heads, Valve seats, Connecting Rods, Crankshaft, load bearings, heat from friction AND combustion, and Driveline are absorbing the stress of both the compression and combustion cycles. During the practice of engine braking the pistons, rings, heads, valve seats, rods, etc. are only enduring the punishment of the compression cycle as there is little combustion or none entirely with a fuel injection system which does not inject fuel when the rpms are above idle rpm and the throttle plate is fully closed. During engine braking you can actually exceed the redline or maximum rpms capability of an engine with little worry about causing damage to the engine. Engine braking can be used on manuals and automatic (This is what the selections of 3,2, L are for with automatics, that and when you want to restrict what gears the transmission with use such as steep hills and such) transmissions, however engine braking with an automatic can cause the torque converter to overheat with prolonged high rpms runs. Try learning to drive CDL requirement vehicles such as tractor-trailer rigs where you can have 16,18,21 gears to use. The use of engine braking or jake braking on tractor trailers rigs is highly important because of the weight of the vehicle and more importantly the load you can quickly find your air pressure for your brakes expended or your brakes overheated to uselessness if you rely soley on your brakes themselves instead of using engine braking. And I can tell you from experience that it is not enjoyable to be placed in that situation.

Sorry but the only way is to use 32bit (Which is what the game was intended to be played at). 16 bit is just for compatibility reasons. With that setup however you should be able to run 32 bit easy.

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The world will someday come to an end. The end doesn't even require a collision with an wandering spacebody. Given enough time the moon will someday collide with the Earth or its orbit will become so close that the gravitational pulls will destroy both bodies. Every year the Moon's orbit decays a little bit, and approaches the earth a tiny amount. So in a few millions or billion years the end is certain... Or in other words don't worry about this stuff, there is nothing that could really be done to prevent it.