Chimere

@Groove_C I with you best luck in silicon lottery for any CPU / MoBo you buy.

@Groove_C Hello there, 1.35V was max voltage after all stress tests what i have run that day. Im using hwinfo64 as hw monitor. Prime95 2.98 b6 with your settings: temp max: 81.2C, average: 78.6C voltage max: 1.337V, average: 1.276V All cores boost stable 4850MHz 30min test run, 0 errors, 0 warnings

@Groove_C Hello there, prime95 ver.: 26.6 - i was using that version for 8700k tests, to be honest i didnt check which version i should use for ryzen 5xxx so i will probably do new tests if needed. Anyway there are more and more posts on the internet and OC community that prime95 isnt good test reference anymore (unreal tests, etc), AIDA64 should be better reference. Yes all cores constantly at 4.9GHz with some spikes upto 5GHz. Voltage jumps between idle 0.9 - 1.35 stress Bios settings: Overclocking -> Advanced CPU configuration AMD Overclocking -> Precision Boost Overdrive (PBO) set to Advanced PBO limits set to Disabled Curve Optimizer -> set to All cores All cores curve optimizer sign set to Negative All cores curve optimizer magnitude set to max available - my MoBo can do 30 or set highest number what will be stable for you

Hello there, i want to share my experience, just switched from 8700k to 5800x yesterday and i dont think its too hot, well it might be with stock bios settings, but after few simple tweaks with PBO2 i managed to lower CPU temps and got increased clock speeds. So far im really amazed by performance and temps. System and tests: MoBo: MSI mag b550 Tomahawk RAM: 4x8GB 3200MHz CL16 - i know, i should have at least 3600 CL14, but those are from old system GPU: RTX 2070 CPU cooler: Noctua nh-u12a CPU fan speed smart curve to max 60% RPM (i like quiet system) and 60% vs 100% RPM made just 0.8-1.2C difference in stress tests. prime95 26.6: blend test - 2 hours, 78.5C max temp, all cores boosts to 4.9GHz, all tests passed AIDA64 Extreme: stress CPU, FPU, cache, memory - 2hours, 76.5C max temp, all cores boosts to 4.9GHz Cinebench R20: MC - 79.8C max temp, all cores boosts to 4.9GHz, score 6162 SC - 55.3C max temp, preferred core boosts to 5GHz, score 640 Arma 3 yaab ultra - 3.8k view distance 1080p: old sys with 8700k - 68C max temp, average 44.8 FPS, all cores sync 5GHz (delid) 5800x - 53.2C max temp, average 61.2 FPS, preferred core boosts to 5GHz

Thats what i exactly draw to him with his case as an example in my above post 🙂

Yes, i know. Thats why i recommended cb65 different fans setup, cause his case doesnt have bottom fans slots.

Most of the time is MP FPS based on your view distance / objects view distance - lower number = more FPS, for example in 100 players KoTH i set on foot view distance to 1000m and on Kavala city to 500m to get at least 40 average FPS. Also worth mention, dont expect high FPS in MP for example in high populated Exilemod servers, most of the time is FPS limited by server performance, cause there is a lot of objects spawned by players (vehicles, buildings, etc).

@oldbear Well that "somewhat simplistic preconceptions" runs my system over 1.5 year 3-7C cooler than rear intake setup - i made a lot of tests and measurements when i put together my rig, also borrowed thermal cam for that 😄 But yeah it depends on case, components, etc. For example mine GPU doesnt have exhaust inside, and also most GPUs have cooler limbs oriented to sides, not to rear / front - also air from frontal fans is faster / stronger than those side exhausts. Also i put into consideration his dust filter setup and lack of bottom fans slots, so he can only use frontal intake to get air under GPU. In the end, he should try both or even more fans setups and which one will bring best temps gonna be winner for him.

@cb65 What i described will create overpressure = possitive air pressure, 3 fans in with higher airflow, then 3 fans out with lower airflow = more air inside case.

I would recommend different fans setup - your case have double dust filters in front, no filter in rear and single filter on top. So as intakes i would choose front fans, exhaust would be top and rear. Never set rear fan as intake, it will suck hot air from GPU exhaust (+PSU while you have it on bottom) on your CPU cooler, cause hot air goes up. Front: 3x high airflow -> in Top: 2x normal airflow -> out Rear: 1x normal airflow -> out This setup will deliver air for CPU, RAM, GPU and it will also cool air between CPU and GPU. Putting fans with higher airflow in front and lower airflow at top + rear will create air overpressure, as Groove mentioned it helps keeping dust out of the case. Here is image for demonstration: What Groove suggested you would look like this:

Yeah it completely sounds like the switch is damaged, if its still under warranty, try to RMA it, if not and you are handy, you can try to repair mouse on your own, at first i would try to dissassemble the mouse and clean it, if it doesnt help i would try to repair the switch - but its risky, those switches are really small. Video bellow demonstrates how to repair double clicking switch, but it can help you imagine how repair can be done.

Everytime when you want to discuss problem with your HW, its MUST to write type of the hardware, so we know its Logitech mouse, which one? Im not hardcore gamer, but im playing alot, and my last mouse lasted for 11 years (mx518 - still working), i bought razer Naga Trinity, for 3 different setup of side buttons + new features, switches, etc. After 1.5 year of using it my Naga started double clicking - left, right and scroll button - ive searched a lot and found common problem with newer Razer / Logitech mouses, they are bulding up static energy in micro switch over time, and they gonna double click / unwant click, quick solution (sounds stupid) is take deep warm breath under those buttons few time, the warm wet air will kill the static and it works again 😄

Envy! NH-D14 has dimm clearance of 44mm and thats exacly my RAMs

Im watching that video for the 3rd time right now, more i see it, more i love it. So far there are confirmed 3 products, the elite which is on website, 50mm thick all aluminium or with copper plate and 30mm more quiet version with also copper plate. Also is really nice dimm clearence of 52mm, my RAMs have 44mm height so nice reserve, now my noctua sits on them and touching them, heh.

yeah saw that vid before, but i lost word about copper and didnt see it on website, but she actually does said that. Also i already mentioned that pros of liquid inside in comment before - tested and rated for 1000W chips before dry-out, so it completely beats heatsinks. Also i really like how its gonna be there more space inside case around socket, when i was upgrading case fans last week i had to take off CPU cooler, cause some smart ASUS designer put fan pins around / under CPU socket 😄

I know, https://www.icegiantcooling.com/prosiphonelite Material aluminium, good buy liquid metals with Gallium.

Hmm release 2020 summer, presale $120, amazing. Also it managed to cool down OCed 800W TR 3990X (passed prime95 stress tests) and beated all best AIOs, wow. Heh i dunno how i could forgot on that, i have set it up notification in calendar to check it in summer 😄 Also that dielectric fluid is rated for 1000W chip before it might dry-out, nice!

Indeed - actually vapor is hot and light so goes up (to the end of pipe) on its own

Wow interesting, looks amazing. I see my case would have to lay down on side with that IceGiant ProSiphon Elite, for best efficiency using gravity.

Oh my mistake, but we know which one i thought 😛 Also thanks for the fan info, i will look on them!

Yeah i know some actual ones are already in black, but i was talking about the upgraded 14 pipe version.

Ohh that NH-D15S with 14 pipes looks insane, if they gonna make it in black / dark grey i know whats my next CPU cooler 🙂 What liquid metal are you using?

@Tankbuster "If the system is idling, presumably there's no one at the PC to hear it." - for example when im working from home on PC my system is almost at idle clocks / fan speeds and i work a lot from home. "Air coolers move a lot of air and do pick up lot of dust" - ehm isnt all AIOs cooled by air fans too? You are mounting in most cases AIO's radiator with fans directly on case, so AIO's fans will suck air inside case, while gaming those fans goes in higher RPMs than case fans, so they will suck more air = more dust than my 2 140mm frontal case fans which operates on 500-800 RPM and tell me how CPU air cooler can suck more air inside case than AIO while its not directly mounted on case vents, i would say dust issues are similar with air cooler / AIO. Also i saw many specs / reviews measuring decibels of AIOs versus NH-D15 and D14 and noctua fans are really silent, ofc dunno what others air coolers. Most of the default AIOs fans are more noisy than noctua fans, noctua fans are famous for their airflow + lower noise. Thats why most AIOs users what i know mount noctua fans over default ones on their AIOs. "Perhaps your issues are more with Razer more than AIO systems in general. I don't know if Razer have a good rep" - what Razer? Kraken x52 is from NZXT manufacturer. But yeah, I confess its subjective / my personal preference, i burnt my fingers with AIO so i lost trust in it. Also worth mentioning, with AIO my system (GPU, mobo, ram, hdds) was 5-8C hotter, cause all heated air from AIO goes inside case.

Better cooler? NH-D14 have slighly better thermal results than NH-D15 (all nowdays comparisons are with D15 cause its newer) and D15 is just 2-4C over kraken z63 in 9900K stress tests, at least in those what i searched and saw 🙂 Also i wouldnt get AIO again, never. Pump noise when PC is on idle, leakage, a lot lower reliability (in comparison to air coolers), i had kraken x52 and i had to RMA 3 times for faulty pump, worst case scenario with my noctua is that both fans can stop working, then my 2 140mm frontal case fans would cool CPU passive enough. One thing i have to admit, AIO looks amazing and it saves a lot of space over the motherboard - for example when i was switching case fans i had to put off CPU cooler, cause some smart ASUS designer put fan pins near / around CPU socket.

Thank you for reply! I was considering deliding my CPU, but i stepped back, cause 200-300 more MHz wont do big difference as you said.