PC Discussion Thread II - All PC related discussion goes here.

[Schismatrix 1]

Well I actually do a little bit of editing (both vid and audio), but you're probably right about not needing more.

Ok, I will definately check out some SDD! Thanks for your help!

[mr_centipede 31]

I'm planning to get SSD solely for ARMA2, but is it ok if just ARMA2 is on the SSD and the OS on the old hard-drive? or is it just a waste of money?

[xeno426 10]

The OS should be paced on the SSD as well, as this will speed the boot process and any calls to OS files, something that obviously happens a lot.

[mr_centipede 31]

Thanks for the info xeno, but will it have some gains if the OS not on SSD? or no gain at all?

[xeno426 10]

Your overall system will be slower compared to one with the OS on the SSD because all your windows files and drivers will be on the slower drive.

Seriously, put your OS on the SSD. If nothing else you boot up in 15 seconds.

[mr_centipede 31]

Roger that... thanks for the heads up, I almost shoot my own foot thinking I only need to put ARMA on SSD, and gain some performance...

[xeno426 10]

You would gain some performance in ArmA2, but you would putting your system through a massive chokepoint because every Windows API and driver call would have to go through the slower drive. In an earlier post I posted a link to a review of SSD's in the ~250GB range, which is really what you should shoot for at a minimum; a 128GB SSD will fill up very quickly.

[vilas 473]

If you buy Windows 7 OEM, then yes, it is tied to the motherboard when you first activate it.

If you purchase regular retail Windows 7, you don't have that issue.

Keep in mind the lowest two grades of Windows 7 (Starter and Home Basic) are pretty much only found as OEM.

not in all world countries you have Basic and Starter, in many countries you have only : Home, Pro, Ultimate - 3 versions only

[xeno426 10]

Is that Home Premium that's available in other countries, or Home Basic?

There's also Enterprise Edition, but that's only for businesses.

[chortles 263]

You would gain some performance in ArmA2, but you would putting your system through a massive chokepoint because every Windows API and driver call would have to go through the slower drive. In an earlier post I posted a link to a review of SSD's in the ~250GB range, which is really what you should shoot for at a minimum; a 128GB SSD will fill up very quickly.

I imagine that the system performance wouldn't be much worse than if there simply wasn't a SSD involved, but there's not much point to not putting the OS onto the SSD, especially since in Windows 7 you can move the user accounts' storage folders using the Location tab, and if need be you can even move the subfolders in the user account's AppData folder.

In fact, I've placed the Windows OS, Steam, and (Steam versions of) Arma 2/OA onto a 80 GB SSD, while the user account's My Documents folder was moved to the HDD and holds addons, profiles, saves and the beta client. I have yet to move the Arma subfolders (ArmA 2, ArmA 2 Free and ArmA 2 OA) in AppData\Local, the ones where MPMissionsCache, players, squads and the .RPT files are stored, though one would have to move the Local subfolder instead of its Arma subfolders.

[vilas 473]

yes, Home Premium

[mr_centipede 31]

I didnt know that you can move My Documents folder to other drives... Thats really great. Now how do I do that? I do have Win 7.

On other topic, about the TrackIR TrackClip Pro. I'm planning to change headsets and after using the clip for so long on the old headsets, the foam has become rigid. Do you guys know how to refresh the foam back?

[vilas 473]

in XP you were clicking right mouse button on "my documments" , than "properties" , than "push/move" , i believe in 7 it should be the same way

since ever i had my docs on D in case of format c:

[chortles 263]

It's "Location" in 7 instead. Create a corresponding folder on the target drive (i.e. D:\Documents) then right-click My Documents on the C: drive (C:\Users\Arma 2 Player\My Documents) and select Properties, then click the Location tab and the Move button to select your target folder on the target drive, then click OK and allow the moving of all files from the folder since you're moving into an empty folder; be careful if moving into an occupied folder on the target drive.

For emphasis, I use this arrangement to store the official files from BI on the SSD and just about everything else on the storage drive.

[crassus 0]

Xeno (or anyone who can answer this really), I'm sorry to bring this up again, but I'm looking for clarification: I'm running an Asus Sabertooth 990FX with a Phenom II x4 965, and I may upgrade the proc to one of the FX. Upgrading the CPU does not affect OEM licensing does it? When you write that the OEM OS is tied to the mobo, that means strictly motherboard, correct, not mobo and cpu combined?

[xeno426 10]

I don't have any first-hand experience with it. But everything I've read indicates it's only changes in the motherboard that invalidates an OEM installation.

[purepassion 22]

G'day gentlemen and a happy new year!

As the title suggests, I am planning on upgrading my PC.

Currently, I am using a i7-860 at stock speeds with the stock cooler, a GIGAGYTE GA-H55M-USB3 mainboard with a new BIOS, 4GB of OCZ DDR3 RAM, 550W Silentforce PSU, standard cooler master case and the Sapphire Radeon HD5570 1GB.

Unfortunately, my current and rather old 18" TFT Monitor, has a very severe subpixel error and thus has to be replaced as well.

My goal is to be able to play mostly Arma 3 and other BIS titles on high settings. (Not aiming at constant 60fps or similar).

So, I want to update: CPU cooling, Monitor and GPU for about 450€.

Overclocking/CPU cooling:

I would like to overclock the i7 by the help of a Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B. My question here is if you think the Mugen 2 (Rev. B ) is still a good bang for the buck for this i7 or do you know of any other modell you could recommend? What do you think about a liquid cooling system in a similar pricerange? (Corsair Hydro Hxx)

GPU:

For the graphics card, I am looking at the AMD 7870 OC.

There are many different versions available such as MSI, Sapphire, Gigabyte etc all being in a similar price range.

Specifically, I am looking at the MSI R7870 Twin Frozr 2GD5/OC (dualfan) and the Gigabyte GVR787OC-2GD (triple fan).

At the moment, I think the Gigabyte model wins the race for me.

How do you think these would compare to a GTX660ti modell, especially in RV games. Have you noticed AMD or NVIDIA performing better in Arma?

Monitor:

That's propably the most problematic one for me as there is just such a broad variety to chose from.

In general, I am pending towards a IPS panel. I know that the TN panels mostly have a lower latency than IPS but the superior colours are currently more important for me. I am however more than interested to learn more on the subject and base my decision on that. The size should not be exaggerated, I think 23" with a resolution of 1920*1080 is good for me. It should not have any built-in speakers.

I am currently looking at the

LG Electronics Flatron IPS235P

It was tested by tomshardware to have a latency of about 8ms which I think is acceptable for gaming (the main use).

What do you think about IPS vs TN and especially, what do you think about this monitor?

So, in short:

Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B ca 50€

7870 or GTX660 ca 200€

LG Electronics Flatron IPS235P, 23" ca 180€

good?

Or perhaps you have a different idea of how to use these ~450 bucks most effictively?

Ultimately, when Arma 3 is actually going to be released, I plan on adding a SSD as well.

And do you think the 550W PSU is still sufficient for such an update?

With best regards,

Pure

[Tonci87 163]

Regarding the Mugen 2 Rev B:

I have that one. Just make sure that you have enough space in your Tower!

It performs very good by the way

[PuFu 4591]

So, in short:

Scythe Mugen 2 Rev. B ca 50€

7870 or GTX660 ca 200€

LG Electronics Flatron IPS235P, 23" ca 180€

good?

Or perhaps you have a different idea of how to use these ~450 bucks most effictively?

COOLER: I can only comment on the Corsair Hydro series. It is by far the most efficient CPU cooling i have came across. I have two of those on 2 separate PCs, as well as one at the office on a i7 3820.

GPU: I would go for a GTX 660Ti if you can find it around the price range, which is hard to. Around 300Eus around here,

Monitor: I will never buy another monitor but Dell. I have been a using Samsung for long while, but switched to Dell IPS monitors some time ago. I am still craving for a 27-30 SIPS one, but 800+ price range is killing it for me.

all in all i would recommend Dell U2412M ~300EUs (1920x1200 - i have 2 of those at my office PC) or the cheaper U2312HM ~200EUs

[Tonci87 163]

COOLER: I can only comment on the Corsair Hydro series. It is by far the most efficient CPU cooling i have came across. I have two of those on 2 separate PCs, as well as one at the office on a i7 3820.

GPU: I would go for a GTX 660Ti if you can find it around the price range, which is hard to. Around 300Eus around here,

Monitor: I will never buy another monitor but Dell. I have been a using Samsung for long while, but switched to Dell IPS monitors some time ago. I am still craving for a 27-30 SIPS one, but 800+ price range is killing it for me.

all in all i would recommend Dell U2412M ~300EUs (1920x1200 - i have 2 of those at my office PC) or the cheaper U2312HM ~200EUs

Pick that one, I´m very happy with it.

[mihikle 2]

Basically I'll cut straight to the chase: At about 5:30 am this morning, I wake up to the sound of my moniter making a beep/alarm noise at me (in-time with the flashing red on/off button that I usually have). When I really listened, I could also hear some kind of electronic garble coming from the back of my computer. However once my pc and moniter had been turned off at the wall, both noises stopped (I seem to be getting into the habit of accidently leaving the power on but not the computer on. overnight). Does anyone have any idea why this is heppening? I usually am asleep till like 10 am so this is like middle of the night for me but I have never ever heard this kind of noise from it before and especially not at 6am. Any ideas? :S

[Tonci87 163]

Was the PC running when it started to make these noises?

[chortles 263]

Apparently the 660 Ti's analogue would be a 7870 GHz Edition or a 7950, so 660 Ti's the way to go if you can find it for cheap enough -- though from what I've heard, "avoid MSI and Gigabyte, stick with ASUS and EVGA".

Seriously though, what would you be using the graphics card for? Considering how a bunch of games lately seem to be CPU-reliant, I'd dare suggest that a SSD is by far the biggest upgrade you could make and thus the highest priority, moreso than the graphics card.

[purepassion 22]

Thanks for the feedback Tonci, Pufu and Chortles!

I was looking at the U2312HM as well but then came to the Flatron IPS235P as it had HDMI ports as opposed to the Dell. I will try to take a look at them both with my own eyes :) The U2412M is sadly not in my pricerange :/

Regarding the Mugen 2, I think since it is actually getting kind of aged, so there is not much that would speak against the Mugen 3 which is newer and said to perform even better while still being in the same price category.

The problem with the GTX660ti is mainly the price. I'll most likely have to buy a new PSU as well to be able to provide enough power to the new components for a longer time, so it's sadly too much. I'll try to see what's the best price nevertheless. :)

The problem with my current GPU is mainly that I need more fps. I have found a good compromise between performance and visual quality but something of more power is just due.

The SSD is definitely in the back of my head as a future investment! :)

Though at the moment, with the monitor having to be updated regardless, I think it will be needed to have more power to compensate for the much higher 1080p resolution.

Again already thanks for the feedback!

[batto 17]

Regarding the Mugen 2, I think since it is actually getting kind of aged, so there is not much that would speak against the Mugen 3 which is newer and said to perform even better while still being in the same price category.

Hi. I've Mugen 3 PCGH. I think it's good (four 3.3 GHz cores used 100% of time for several mins with max temp around 53 °C). But PCGH edition was waste of money because additional 2nd fan would block one RAM slot.